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Over the course of a month this year, I had the opportunity to
make an exploratory visit to South-West Bougainville due to an association
I had with the Bougainville Community Water Supply Project. This
project is based in the district of Siuai and has the goal of establishing
a community-based rainwater catchment, to provide safe water for
communities in South-West Bougainville and to contribute towards
the peace process through the restoration of basic services.
The incident I will now refer to took place on completion of the
3rd day of a 6 day village-based women's workshop. I had over the
previous three days, observed and participated in a programme which,
as part of the Water Supply Project, provided practical training
to women in the construction of cement water jars and also combined
the discussion of community topics of particular relevance to women.
The workshop was facilitated by three local women, Veronica and
Vincencia, both 24 and Eileen, a 45-year-old woman recently employed
by the Project for her experience, leadership and her valuable contacts
throughout the district.
The women were in very high spirits as they believed the first
3 days of the workshop had been a success and having spent 2 nights
away, they were looking forward to returning to their villages.
Therefore, having packed the vehicle, we commenced the hour-long
journey to the Project base, stopping after a short time to give
a group of women a lift to their village. As we did so, two men
also approached our vehicle wanting a lift. It was clear however,
one was extremely intoxicated, probably on Jungle Juice, the local
spirit or homebrew made from fermented pineapple, coconut or watermelon.
Over the previous weeks, I had continuously heard about Jungle
Juice, its harmful effects and the disapproval that much of the
community had towards its consumption. Not only did people believe
it caused those who drank it serious physical and social problems,
they also recognised that the associated drunkenness had a negative
impact on the community at large. Therefore, quite a long exchange
took place between our driver, a very hesitant Eileen and the two
men and I felt there was a sense of unease at the prospect of having
the men along for the ride. However, our driver and Eileen finally
succumbed, the men clambered on the back of the vehicle and we continued.
Eileen reassuringly asserted that it had been agreed that the men
were allowed a ride only if they looked after our belongings on
the back.
It then started to rain heavily and visibility on the pot-holed
road became increasingly difficult. (I use the word 'road' freely.
What used to be a double lane asphalt road was reclaimed by the
jungle during the Crisis and therefore is now in a state of disrepair,
barely wide enough for one vehicle). Suddenly a hand started banging
on the window to the left of Veronica, reaching so far as to hit
my window a number of times. The banging continued and no one said
a word to each other. Instead, Eileen started praying aloud, "dear
god take control, we are in your hands, please look after us, we
trust you to take control".
It was about this time that I began to get nervous and my mind
was racing: "why is she praying? This must be really bad if she
is praying". We finally stopped, only to see the man who was drunk
stumbling beside the vehicle with Veronica's bag. Veronica quickly
opened her door to grab it but instead he gave the bag to her and
continued passing her others off the back of the vehicle. "It's
ok" she said, "he is looking after our bags so he doesn't want them
to get wet". We were all very relieved.
Our trip resumed after he got back on the vehicle and Eileen started
to sing a hymn, loudly. Her song was abruptly interrupted by a knock
on the roof for the vehicle to stop. The man who was drunk fell
off the side of the vehicle into the bushes, just avoiding impaling
himself on his 1 1/2 foot long bush knife. The next instant he stumbled
to the front of the vehicle and in what I assumed was an attempt
to block our way, stood there, threateningly holding his bush-knife
out in front of him. His friend went to get him out of the way but
he angrily shook him off.
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